It’s autumn, time to reacquaint ourselves with the rare natural treasure from Piedmont. Spearheading the seasonal return of white truffle to Hong Kong’s culinary scene is Castellana’s head chef Romeo Morelli and his four-course degustation menu.
Autumn is at our doorstep once again, the time of year when food lovers and gastronomes rejoice in the return of white truffle season. For a taste of its umami and earthy flavours, look no further than Castellana, a Northern Italian restaurant in the heart of Central, specialising in the authentic cuisine of Piedmont.
The kitchen is helmed by chef Romeo Morelli, a native of the region’s province of Asti, and if his heritage isn’t proof enough of his familiarity and expertise in the area’s ingredients and dishes, he also trained at the five-star Relais san Maurizio under the mentorship of Luca Zecchin, the modern master of Piedmontese cuisine.
Featuring on Morelli’s seasonal menu are appetisers that range from porcini mushroom tart with egg yolk to poached egg with Jerusalem artichoke, and mains that include Bagna Cauda homemade taglioni pasta, homemade ravioli pasta with Castelmagno cheese, seared quail with asparagus and sturgeon with cardoons, and hazelnut parfait for dessert, all of which are complemented by generous toppings of Alba white truffle sourced directly from the restaurant’s own land.
“The special location of my home region allows a very diverse climate in Piedmont,” explains Morelli. “Our amazing mountains, plains and hills all contribute to the production of high-end ingredients that are unmistakably Piedmontese. We’re nestled between France and Switzerland, and share the same love of rich flavours, but Piedmontese cuisine is unique in the sense that there are certain flavours and techniques that can only be found in that region, and there’s a lot of history behind it. This is why I’m so thrilled to share the stories of Piedmont through my cooking.”
To further complement a white truffle experience at Castellana, sommelier Alan Tse has painstakingly selected a list of wines from Piedmont to pair with the tasting menu, including Damilano Metodo Classico, Timorasso from La Colombera, Cascina Luisin Rabajà Barbaresco, and Brachetto d’Acqui.
“Piedmontese white truffles are always best paired with white and red wine from Piedmont,” says Tse. “Grape varieties such as Timorasso, Arneis and Nebbiolo are highly recommended. Other regions such as the Pinot Nero from Alto Adige or Friuli can work well with white truffle too. If we’re looking for something more interesting, I’d also suggest the Etna Rosso from Sicily: the unique smoky mineral flavours with the delicate tannins can pair surprisingly well with the earthy flavours of the truffle.”
At $2,580 a head, Castellana’s four-course white truffle degustation menu is now available for bookings. Club Lusitano,
UG & 1/F, 16 Ice House Street, Central;
tel: 31885028.